Flourite is a specially fracted stable porous clay gravel for the natural planted aquarium. Its appearance is best suited to planted aquaria, but may be used in any aquarium environment. Flourite is most effective when used alone as an integral substrate bed, but it may be mixed with other gravels. Gravel modifiers such as laterite are not necessary. Flourite is not chemically coated or treated and will not alter the pH of the water. Although pre-washed, it should be rinsed before use to remove residual dust. Dust can also be minimized by filling tank slowly and dispersing water so that the Flourite bed is not disturbed. Slight initial cloudiness is normal and will clear rapidly (2–12 hours). This bag is sufficient for about a 5 cm (2 inch) deep bed in a typical 40 L (10 gallon) tank. Recommended use is 1 kg (2 lbs) for approximately each 200 cm2 (31 in2) of tank bottom at a depth of 5 cm (2 in).
Concentration of nutrients in Flourite
Units=mg/kg, source: Plasma Emission Spectrometer, EPA Method 3050, Univ. of Georgia Chemical Analysis Lab
FAQ from Seachem
Q: Do I need to add anything to Flourite? Does it inherently contain micro and macro nutrients? If so, how long before these nutrients are naturally exhausted?
A: Flourite inherently contains only micro nutrients and these are slowly released, many not released unless actively transported by the plant roots. Thus the substrate should be self-sustaining for many years and should never actually require replacement.
Q: Should I be incorporating any other products?
A: Depending on how dense the growth or how dense you wish it to be, the use of Flourish (foliar feeding), Flourish Tabs (root feeding), and Flourish Iron can be useful and helpful beyond the substrate itself, but are not necessities.
Q: Will Flourite maintain its physical integrity as a gravel when it gets wet?
Q: Will Flourite work with an under gravel filter?
A: Flourite will work fine with an UGF. Flourite is ideally sized and has a clay based composition (including minerals such as iron and manganese) that is ideal for plant growth. Flourite will not soften or decompose to an unsuitable state. In addition, Flourite has an attractive, natural appearance.
Q:What is the mineral content of Flourite ? How can you compare Iron content of laterite vs. Flourite?
A: Flourite is a red clay based gravel that is rich in ferric iron. Comparing Flourite and laterite on the basis of their iron content alone is not a really valid comparison since they are really quite different products (the old apple and oranges argument). Their iron content is going to be roughly pretty similar, but with each the actual content can vary from lot to lot. Since we don't market it as an iron supplement, we don't make any claims on exactly how much iron it delivers to the water per se. What it does do though is provide a rich source of iron (more than enough to last years) for rooting plants; the plants are able to extract the iron from the Flourite. There are also other features of Flourite which make it superior to laterite: (1) laterite is intended as a substrate supplement, i.e. you add it to your gravel; by itself it is not a suitable substrate because it will quickly break apart into, well, dirt. Flourite is by itself a suitable substrate because it remains solid, does not fall apart,and can be cleaned and gravel vacuumed without unduly upsetting the substrate.
Q:I've heard that Flourite's content of arsenic is 18 ppm. Any comments on this?
A: We are currently investigating this claim and will make our findings public when we have all the facts. However, all iron containing substrates (even laterite) contain around 5 ppm of arsenic (as insoluble ores (aresenopyrite or orpiment)). The keyword here is insoluble because if either of these ores were in any way soluble the water would contain far beyond the 0.05 - 12 ppm toxicity that plants show toward arsenic. The fact that thousands of people use this product in their planted tanks without a single incident of plant death (on the contrary, all we hear are stories of fantastic growth!), is a strong indicator that no arsenic is being leached.
Q: I have recently bought Flourite for my aquarium tank. As noted on the label, I have rinsed fourite to get rid of any dust. But after ten times of rinsing, I am still getting a dense cloud of sand in the residual water. Should I keep on washing it till the water turns clear, would that wash away any of its nutrients?
A: It is possible to experience an excess of particles/dust from this product due to frictional action in packaging and shipping. Flourite Red is an ore with a rich mineral composition and is not chemically coated. Even though some small particles washed away, the product is completely viable and will still offer the same benefit. A better way to add this to an established aquarium is to add small amounts at a time a half day to 24 hours apart making sure these small amounts are rinsed thoroughly. You can also use a water clarifier (floculant) to clump any small free floating particles together making it easier for your mechanical filter to catch. Your cartridges/floss will tend to clog from all the particles being trapped and will need rinsing or replacing regularly.
Q: Is there a difference between Flourite and Flourite Red in the mineral content of the product?
A: There is no difference between Flourite and Flourite Red other than color. Overall they are predominantly an aluminum, iron, potassium, and magnesium based ore. For planted aquarium use it is principally the iron that confers a benefit, although the presence of other trace minerals would be expected to also confer some benefit as well.
Q: I was wondering if your product, Flourite, would be ok to use in a frog habitat instead of gravel to help the bog plants in their tank grow better?
A: Flourite is perfectly fine to use in this application as it is a naturally mined ore that has a rich mineral composition. It is not chemically coated with a fertilizer in any way.
Q: Does Flourite breakdown as utilized by plants?
A: Flourite will not break down under long term aquarium use. I know it is a fracted clay based substrate, but this clay is as hard as a rock - not soft. For all intent and purpose, it is a rock. This substrate is made up of a rich mineral composition, not just coated with a fertilizer so your plants will derive a long term benefit from this substrate.